Whenever we are in the Luberon region in Provence, we visit one of our favorite perched villages: Ménerbes. Together with Bonnieux, Lacoste and Oppède-le-Vieux, Ménerbes sits on the north face of the Luberon Mountain.
Peter Mayle vs. Cyriel Buysse
I know what you’re thinking: “Peter Mayle fans!” Not really. After living here for eight years, I was rather disappointed when I read One good Year. The stories of Cyriel Buysse, a Flemish writer who drove 5000 km in 1915 in an open Minerva (!) are far more interesting and evocative of the times when Provence was not so commonly visited as today. Just imagine the sheer expeditionary character of his trip. In the red Michelin guide of the early ’60, you can read that even then Provence was still nearly impenetrable!
Anyway, after driving 9 hours in luxury compared to Cyriel’s tour de force, we stood in the Rue de l’Eglise in Ménerbes. Before rounding the corner to the Place de l’Horloge, I sketched the sun throwing fantastic light and abstract forms on the walls of the medieval buildings. I stood with my back to several wall paintings, in open air(!) by Joe Downing (1925-2007), an American artist who lived in Ménerbes. The forms and colors in his paintings are fragile. A good example is never far.
Artists in Ménerbes
Ménerbes has attracted many artists, filmmakers, and writers over the years. Here are some of the most remarkable figures who have lived and worked in Ménerbes, whose traces can still be found while strolling through the village:
Dora Maar (1907-1997)
French photographer and painter, best known as the muse and lover of Pablo Picasso. She spent her summers in a house in Ménerbes, which Picasso acquired for her, and after their breakup, she found solace in religion and painting. The house is now a cultural center that regularly hosts lectures and exhibitions.
Clovis Hugues (1851-1907)
French poet, journalist, and politician, born in Ménerbes. A fervent socialist, he was elected as a deputy several times, and his literary works are known for their vivid energy.
Nicolas de Staël (1914-1955)
French painter of Russian origin, known for his abstract landscapes. In October 1953, he settled in Ménerbes, where he found inspiration in the Provençal landscapes, leading to works such as, unsurprisingly, Ménerbes (1953).
Peter Mayle (1939-2018)
English author, famous for his memoir A Year in Provence, in which he recounts his experiences after moving to Provence. His work brought Ménerbes international recognition and attracted many tourists to the village. It was later adapted into a film by Ridley Scott, who lives and works in nearby Oppède.
Joe Downing (1925-2007)
Franco-American painter, known for his colorful abstract works. He lived and worked in Ménerbes, drawing inspiration from the local environment and culture. A small garden with a stunning view, located opposite the Dora Maar house, is dedicated to him.
Raymond Mason (1922-2010)
English sculptor and illustrator, known for his figurative sculptures. In 1956, he purchased a house in Ménerbes, where he worked and found inspiration in the local culture and surroundings.
Félix Devaux (1871-1920)
French sculptor and architect, renowned for his monumental works in the region. In 1910, he created a monument in honor of Clovis Hugues in Ménerbes, contributing to the village’s cultural heritage.
Yves Rousset-Rouard (1940-)
French film producer and politician. He produced, among others, the successful Emmanuelle films. Beyond his film career, he served as mayor of Ménerbes (until 2014) and in 1990 founded Domaine de La Citadelle, a vineyard that has been organically farmed since 2016.
